A Little Bit of Vintage Sewing -- Hollywood 1512

In a burst of "conscientious" sewing, I tackled a project that I -- no kidding -- cut out when Little Man was tiny. Since then, it has been sitting folded in a zippered bag in various nooks and crannies of my sewing room. You know, one of those guilt-inducing UFOs that stabs you with an army of pins every time you move it, just to remind you that you're a lazy, unmotivated procrastinator?

Fed up with the guilt trips (and the pin-pricks), I finally pulled it out and went to work.

The pattern is Hollywood 1513, circa 1939 -- Here's a link to one that's for sale. Isn't it just the most fantabulous house coat? I paid a pretty penny more than I'd typically spend on a pattern, because I was just so taken with this design! It's interesting to see how "loungwear" has changed in the past eighty years.

Sadly, the pattern is slightly larger than my size, so the finished product is a bit big. But it was really intended as a mock-up, so in the end it's not much of a disappointment.

The pattern was also one of those "lovely" vintage numbers that has delicate pre-cut sheets of tissue with about a million "markings" on them in the form of little dots and diamonds. If you know me, you know I HATE pattern markings with a vengeance, so it was quite a labor of love to transfer each and every one. Oh, and I traced the pattern onto nonfusible interfacing first, so that I wouldn't have to compromise the tissue paper sheets.

There are some definite negatives about the finished dress -- mostly to do with my fabric choice (light weight quilting cotton), which was not ideal for this dress. I think it was what I had on hand at the time. The collar and lapel pieces are not interfaced, so the dress lacks some much-needed structure in the bodice. Oh, and I didn't read the cuff instructions very well, and due to the way I attached them they don't "cuff" as much as they should. But since this was intended as a mock-up, I'm okay with the little issues.

I love the little sewn in "pleat" in the sleeve!

In the end, I doubt I'll wear the dress in public. It's less "me" than it was when I cut it out (again, fabric). But it's looking smashing on Yvonne, who has been rather scandalously clad in *just* an apron for months.

The intructions were remarkably vague! In fact, I'm quite glad this was a mock-up, because it gave me the chance to try out the various steps. I think I'd be much more confident next time around.

I love the details on this dress -- the bound buttonholes (which would have turned out better if I'd read ahead in the instructions and had picked a better fabric *wink*), the wrap front, the sash that feeds around and can be tied either front or back. I'm toying with the idea of sizing it down and making it in a better fabric, as it really is a splendid pattern.

The buttons line up much better when the dress is worn by someone with hips;
Yvonne is rather lacking in the hip department...

It's a bit humbling to post a project that has (in my eyes) so many shortcomings, but I suppose I get brownie points for honesty? And come to think of it, it could be quite a treat to lounge around the house in this dress! 

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Rainy Days and Mondays

We've had a rash of afternoon thunderstorms in this neck of the woods, and even had an unexpected hail shower! I was trying to nab a quick photoshoot on the back porch when the rain began to blow in sideways and little icy pellets started landing on the floorboards. Let's just say I decided to postpone the photos.

Izze is a new favorite of mine (grapefruit, especially!). Yes, fruit juice is still sugary and carbonated beverages are still not ideal. But for a little treat now and then, it's just the ticket. Especially when paired with a toasted baguette spread with Kerrygold butter. I don't know what those Irish cows are eating, but once you try Kerrygold you will never want another butter again! 

At least all of the rain has led to new growth. It's far too hot to spend much time outside these days, so the brief chill of a summer hailstorm was the perfect opportunity to see some green and growing things.

Little Man calls all frogs Jeremy Fisher now that I've introduced him to Beatrix Potter's tale. He likes to have conversations with them, which means that I am called upon to supply the frog's part of the dialogue. A little chat after dinner the other night (for "Jeremy Fisher" likes to take advantage of the bug-attracting light from our dining room window) resulted in Jeremy asking if he could sleep in Little Man's bed. "No," said Little Man, "because you are an animal frog."

Today

My Little One,

Today is the day you were supposed to join our family. If only the tears we shed today were tears of joy at your arrival! You were -- and are -- so very wanted and loved. I know Jesus will love and care for you more tenderly than we ever could, but how I wish I could hold you today. 

Happy Birthday, baby girl.

Summer Staples

With Summer in full swing, I knew it was time to pull out some fabric and get to work. A few pieces from last summer's wardrobe are still in rotation, but many of the tops have bitten the dust (as they were worn throughout Fall, Winter and Spring). 

My coral top and my black-and-white striped maxi skirt were the pieces I was most eager to replace. And here are their replacements!

The top was made from a coral cotton spandex and the skirt is a black stripe cotton spandex, both from Girl Charlee.

The maxi is a simple matter of two self-drafted identical pieces connected to a wide knit waistband. I've learned that I shouldn't serge that waistband seam because I have a tendency to alter my maxi skirts. Sure enough, after taking the above photograph, I decided that the skirt was too "wide," so I detached the waistband and made a few adjustments. Though to be quite honest, I don't serge any of my knit seams any more. It just seems to stretch them out, and it's extra work for fabrics that aren't going to fray anyway.

I drafted the pattern for the top from an existing Old Navy shirt I bought for $1 at my local charity shop. I love the drawstring neckline, and the shirt is surprisingly flattering! It also works really well under cardigans, making this a perfect layering pieces that serves as both a shirt and a "camisole." Oh, and the drawstring neckline provides adjustable modesty! 

This top is so easy to finish, because the neckline binding requires no fancy stretching. I hemmed the armholes and waist with a single row of slightly zig-zagged stitching, so there's no need for fancy equipment (beyond a stretch/ballpoint needle).

Oh, and I did realize while wearing the original shirt today that there should be a line of stitching about 1/4" from the neck edge of the drawstring casing -- I'll have to add that to my existing shirt, as I prefer the look.

From the one yard of coral fabric that I bought, I made this top, the straps for these sandals, and a pair of leggings for Rosa. Not bad for $6.50!

Minimally Shod

My attitude toward footwear has been slowly evolving over the past few years. I am a shoe lover at heart -- after all, what's not to love about an item of clothing that doesn't care if you gained five (or twenty-five) pounds? I used to have at least three dozen pairswhen I was a teenager. They were just so cheap at the thrift store! But my perspective on "stuff" has changed, and that includes footwear. Much as I may admire different styles and designs, I really don't want dozens of pairs any more. In fact, now I prefer the minimum necessary to coordinate with my wardrobe, and one pair (maybe two) for "fun."

Oh, and my perspective on footwear has changed in one other significant way -- we've become more and more convinced that minimalist footwear is the way we want to go for our family. Turns out, people in "shoeless" cultures don't experience the same joint problems that plague first world runners, because you run differently barefoot than you do in a cushy, "supported" shoe with a thick heel. Weight lifters have known this for a long time, which is why they wear flat shoes (it pays to have a husband who knows these things!). I own a pair of Merrell Barefoot Vapor Gloves for running and exercise, and they really are amazing (as in, you will never want to wear another pair of shoes once you put them on). As a disclaimer, I do have one pair of black heels for fancy occasions, and my winter boots aren't exactly minimalist. But my everyday shoes are as flat and "minimal" as I can manage -- though ballet flats, which are typically flexible and have little to no heel) are the closest I've come without spending a fortune. 'Cause let me tell you, there are not many minimalist shoes available -- especially if you're on a budget.   I guess it's a good thing I was downsizing already...

In fact, between my two "minimal" philosophies (fewer pairs and less between me and the ground), I rarely even bother looking at shoes when I'm shopping.

Then I saw Sseko sandals -- a single amazing sandal that can be tied in umpteen different ways with any color of ribbon? Don't pinch me, or I might wake up! Oh, they're also made fair trade by women in Uganda. Like they needed to be any better. There was only one teensy, weensy problem: Ssekos are not minimalist. I would have gladly shelled out the cash if it weren't for that subtle rise between the toe and the heel.

But I wasn't about to give up. Ideas have been simmering in my mind for months (no joke), and I finally summoned up my courage and got started. Turns out, the solution was simple:

You know you have minimalist shoes when the wear pattern on the sole shows your heel,
the ball of the foot, and all of your toes! 

I like simple. Two scraps of free leather (brown upper and black lower, because that's what I had), a utility knife, Contact cement, and a pair of knit "straps" did the trick. I wouldn't feel right doing a full tutorial for these because they are total knock-offs of the Sseko sandal -- but it's a simple design to simulate, based off of this image. I traced my foot and smoothed out the shape, adding a bit so that my foot wouldn't fall off the edge. My leather pieces were relatively thick, but they're still quite flexible. I scientifically "eyed" the location of the leather loops after perusing images on the Sseko website, and fortunately they seem to be placed properly.

They were practically free, unless you count the bottle of contact cement (which is still mostly full). The leather came in a bag of scraps from a local saddle shop, for those of you who might be looking to make some of your own.

I can't wait to try out more of the different tying options, and to also make a whole rainbow of straps. The straps, by the by, were sewn with two strips of excess knit fabric, leftover from a shirt I made (more on that project soon!). I just made them the width of the fabric, which, being a knit, was characteristically wide. 60", perhaps? I'd used grosgrain ribbon at first, but it was not nearly as comfortable. With the knit straps, it feels like I have absolutely nothing on my foot! In fact, once I put them on I have absolutely no inclination to take them off. I think Sseko ribbons are made from woven fabrics, so I'll probably try that to see how it goes.

My toes look a bit wonky in this one, because it's harder than you might think to get pictures of your own foot...

I've noticed some areas of separation between the two sole pieces, so I'll probably try to re-glue them or even try a different glue (I've heard Barge cement is great for leather shoes). Oh, and I think a bit of stitching around the edge would also work splendidly (and solve the glue issue), but I didn't have the proper type of "thread" for such an application and I was too impatient to wait. But since these were free, they're a perfect experimental pair. I can work out any kinks at no cost to myself. Though quite honestly, I'm perfectly happy with them and will continue to wear them as long as they'll last!

I'm so thrilled that I have a new option for footwear; I'd like to experiment even more once I have a little more experience under my belt. Making shoes -- however simple -- was never something I'd thought possible. Now I have an option that fits both of my "minimalist" shoe requirements, with the added bonus of cheap materials, a customized fit, and virtually endless style possibilities.

Tova, My Tova

For months now, I've been ogling the popular Wiksten Tova pattern -- specifically the dress/tunic version. Here are a few of my favorite iterations: Prosestitch's Tova and Nova's Tova.

I've hemmed and hawed, browsed hundreds of images (thank you, all of you who have posted pictures of your finished Tovas!), shuffled my feet, and cogitated far too much over a $10 purchase. I ended up downloading the pattern in a sort of frenzied spontaneity, as if to counteract all of my stalling.

So here, at long last, is my Tova:

Can I just say that I absolutely loved this project? The fabric is the linen blend from JoAnn's that I purchased several months ago. If anything, I like it even more that it's been made up into a dress. As you can see in the pictures, it's somewhere between green and blue, depending on the lighting. Miraculously I had the exact shade of thread in my drawer; I can't remember how it got there, but I somehow doubt it was intentional. Somehow a happy "accident" seems more likely than actual planning on my part! *ahem*

This is possibly the best pattern I have ever used. I can't put my finger on "why," though I suspect it's a combination of good design and the crisp, neat finish that the linen provides. But whatever the reason, I absolutely loved every step of sewing this together. Usually in a project there are one or more spots that I'm less than enthusiastic about, sometimes to the point of dread or loathing. With this dress, however, everything came together like a breeze and I was just excited to move on to the next step. I found the pattern instructions clear and well illustrated, and the pieces fit nicely. The finishing is also great -- I love the top stitching, the placket constructions, and the sleeves -- which were probably the first set in sleeves I've done that actually look set in, not gathered! The front inset was easier than I'd anticipated (based on other reviews), and the collar construction was quite clever, in my opinion. I did tack the plackets together for modesty's sake.

My plan was (and still is) to wear the Tova as a long tunic (or "short" dress) over a pair of leggings. In order to fulfill my personal modesty standards, I wanted to make it long enough to reach almost to my knee -- and for that reason I did add several inches. If you add to much to this garment it starts looking like a nightgown (I know because I'd added extra length just to be safe, and the results were not very flattering!), but I found that a few inches were fine. I do have a proportionally long upper leg, so perhaps that influenced the length? Oh, I also did a 1~" hem with a double row of stitching, instead of the 3/8" hem that it calls for. I thought for a dress a little more heft might be nice (plus, I had the extra length to work with).

I'm still trying to figure out how this dress manages to look flattering. Nothing in its design seems (to me) like it would be particularly amazing -- the pieces are relatively straight, without any fancy curves -- and yet, the finished result is great. Comfortable, easy, and just shapely enough to not look like a bag.

Fortunately I read in other reviews to size down if you're between sizes. I went with my bust measurement and made the size small, hoping that my waist and hip measurements would work -- the waist, I figured, was not fitted, but I was a bit worried about the hips. I did actually add a little to the hip area when I cut out the pattern, but had to unstitch the sides and take out the extra. It looks much better as "written!" So much for my clever planning...

In case you're similarly shaped and are wondering how the Tova will fit you, my measurements are 34" bust, 29" waist, and 38" hip, and I'm 5' 5." I just hope you appreciate the fact that I shared my measurements on the interwebs for your benefit! *wink*

I debated about the sleeves (Sleeveless would work with cardigans... it's the middle of summer... sleeves might look too blousy), but I'm so glad I went with them. Besides, the linen breathes really well, and I actually found this dress far cooler than my knit tops.I'll probably try a sleeveless version in the future.

I'm not used to my sewing projects coming out almost exactly as I envisioned them; it's a nice sensation. *wink* The dress also goes splendidly with my new(ish) Fossil bag. I've been wanting a leather bag for some time -- something that would go with either brown or black, something large enough to hold all of a mom's accessories, and something tote-ish and simple in style. Preferably Fossil, though that was an admittedly frivolous qualification. So when a tan Fossil tote popped up on clearance at a Burlington, I snapped it up. I was willing to pay a bit more for a quality bag, since it would also be my only bag (with the exception of my diaper bag and a small black Thirty-One purse I found at the thrift store), so finding exactly what I wanted for over 70% off retail was quite a boon.

Final thoughts on the Tova? I can find only two downsides -- my least favorite bit is probably the back, which is less fitted than I would like. However, I have a feeling that comes with the territory of a dress like this. Also, the inside is finished very nicely (via serger) with the exception of the bodice inset. If I'd thought it through I could have probably come up with a good finishing technique. Something to remember for next time. However, these little nitpicks are far outweighed by the many great aspects of this pattern (which I think I've sufficiently gushed over).

I think I'd be quite happy with a closet full of Tovas! I can already envision one in chambray with contrasting top stitching (perhaps in an unexpected color?), and I'd love to try one in a subtle print. Hmm, I wonder what would happen in knit....

I've also just finished up my first me-made swim suit, which I'll hopefully be sharing in a few days!

When the Lilies Bloom

For the first few years we lived in this house, I had no idea that we had lilies. Entirely overtaken by lace hydrangeas and a tulip tree, they never bloomed -- or at least, I never could see them through the mass of foliage! 

But after taking out the ill-placed hydrangeas (*sniff*), we had a little surprise this Spring:

The photo below is entirely untouched -- that surreal yellow in the center is just as striking in "real life." And I love the peachy color of the lilies; it's more delicate and less showy than a bright orange lily.

What a lovely tribute to the beauty of our Creator!

Musings on This and That

Life has "calmed down" for a bit, as we now have a better idea of when we'll be moving, and where. The when is six to nine months, and the where is San Diego, Norfolk, or Jacksonville. Pablo just finished up a major stage of training, and is now in the next round (one more to go after that!). A huge bonus of life in the Navy is that you're almost always guaranteed a beautiful coastal duty station. I'm rooting for San Diego or Norfolk -- mostly because I'm ready to spend time in a state other than Florida after 14(!) years here.

In other news, I am basking in the glow of a new washing machine, after our inherited 16-year-old machine started leaking copious amounts of water last Tuesday (my main laundry day, of course). After giving it a shot ourselves, we decided to call a repairmen. He gave us a diagnosis of "get a new machine."

We did our research on the Lowe's website and headed to the store. And there, in the scratch-and-dent section, was my washer. Top-loader (check!), full agitator (check!), auto & manual size options (bonus!), stainless steel basket (another bonus!). A little fancier than I'd anticipated, but cheaper than the more basic models we'd looked at. Apparently it had been returned because it didn't spin, but the repairman at Lowe's couldn't find any problems. It's new and shiny and huge. I like it. A lot. And then the associate knocked an extra $50 off the price without our asking (NOTE: bring cute children when appliance shopping), and that plus the military discount took the price down to about half of the original price.

So after four days without a washer, I finally had my new beauty hooked up and ready to go. I like laundry. Don't hate me, but I really do enjoy it! But never, ever before had I been so happy to do laundry. Thank goodness for the extra large capacity (even bigger than my old large capacity washer), because the dirty laundry had really piled up in those few days! I was definitely scraping the bottom of the wardrobe barrel. Did I mention I also decided to potty train a toddler while my washer was broken? I know, even I am astonished by my brilliance...

And really, doing laundry is even more of a pleasure now. The new washer does all kinds of things (spinning slowly while it fills with water so that all of the clothes get wet, for instance) that are just so great. My only dilemma is that there is a separate cycle for jeans and towels, and goodness, what am I supposed to do if I need to wash both together? *wink* Oh, and for the record, it does spin.

My littles keep getting bigger. I have to squeeze Rosa's chubby thighs multiples times per day to reassure myself that there is a little baby left in my rambunctious toddler. On our walk the other day, Little Man excitedly said, "I'm a good tripper!" It's true. He has the scrapes and boo-boos to prove it. 

Ballet flats and leggings are pretty standard for me right now. I like versatile and comfortable. It's getting hot for walks, but I'm trying. Sort of. 

Cari's comment made me realize that I didn't mention that I was wearing more than just ballet flats and leggings.
*wink* I pair my leggings with knee-length dresses that could possibly show more skin than I'd be comfortable with
if a strong wind or a child were to "intervene." Just FYI.

I've been reading a bit more lately, and quickly devoured the book Treasuring Christ When Your Hands are Full, which our church supplied to moms on Mother's Day. It was excellent! In fact, I wonder if I'm already due for a re-read. I also just polished off Agnes Grey by Anne Bronte (the overlooked Bronte sister). Short, but oh-so-good. I'm rather indifferent to Jane Eyre and can't stand Wuthering Heights, which are the Brontes' most popular novels. But I'm very fond of Shirley and Villette by Charlotte, and Agnes Grey and The Tenant of Wildfell Hall by Agnes. It's the same with Dickens -- his two most popular novels, Oliver Twist and Great Expectations are my least favorite works (though A Tale of Two Cities is admittedly quite famous and a definite favorite of mine), while his less "notable" novels seem to interest me more. Speaking of Dickens, I haven't read one of his novels in an age; perhaps it's time to fill my currently empty "fiction slot" with an old favorite.

The rain is still pattering down softly outside my window, after quite a downpour last night, and the littles are just waking up. I think it's time for day to begin.

Mustache Shoes for a Little Mister

When a family in our church welcomed a long-awaited baby boy a few weeks back, leather shoes instantly popped into my mind. And when I discovered that the baby shower theme was mustaches and sweater vests, the specific design began to take shape.

I used the Darling Diapers Mini Mocs pattern (It's free and includes sizes 0 mths - 4 years!), which is my favorite "classic" leather shoe pattern. I made up the 6-12 months size, since the little guy I made them for is already two months old and growing fast. The shoes were entirely handstitched -- I'm finding that's my absolutely favorite way to sew leather, because there is no stress and headache of trying to get my machine to cooperate.

I drew up a mustache template and cut it out of the tan suede upper, so that the black leather "lining" would show through. It worked like a charm! After stitching the lining and upper right side together along the straight-ish edge, I used an awl to poke a series of holes around the mustache. Then it was a simple matter of two rounds of running stitch (the cleanest way to create a strong, tidy row of stitching on leather, in my opinion) with a regular needle. I chose the awl + regular needle over just a leather needle, since the awl gave me the necessary precision for a topstitching detail. 

I repeated that procedure on the elastic casing. However, I did use a leather needle for my first row of stitching when attaching the sole to the uppers (switching to a regular needle for the second round of running stitch, since the blade on the leather needle can easily cut your existing stitches!). I like the leather needle when sewing "curved" seams that don't lay flat together, because I feel I have more control.

Once the shoes were done, I realized I had no suitable box to place them in, so I got to work with a manila folder and a roll of brown shipping paper. Voila! Custom shoe box! Dolled up with some washi tape and chalkboard contact paper, it was ready to go. And yes, for the record, I often spend far too long wrapping presents. 

Into the bag with some homemade whipped body butter and a little book, and ready to go. For the bag, I stitched together some cardstock flags to make a mini bunting for an otherwise plain gift bag. I like the simplicity of the look.

In keeping with the mustache theme, I volunteered to make a cake (which, sadly, went largely uneaten!). I've been longing to try the whole "take a circle cake and cut a curve in it" idea that you've probably already seen on Pinterest. Well, it works! Sadly, this very "flashy" picture is the only snapshot I got:

Now I'm working on another pair of leather shoes that have been waiting patiently in a box for months -- they were meant to be for Rosa, but even her tiny feet will be too big for them now! Oh well, they'll be ready to go for the next baby girl who graces our circle of friends with her presence.